Retro living and girl power.
I booked myself into the Hotel Pilar, opposite the famous Cathedral and after a few hours of travelling, it's time for lunch. I wander until I find Casa Lac, 1825. I venture into this glamorous bar and order the luncheon deal of 3 tapas and a glass of wine. It's so elegant and the Spanish businessmen and women are out in force and possibly brokering deals in expensive looking clothing.
Then I wander over to visit the cathedral, Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar with it's interesting history. One of Jesus's disciples, James went to Spain to spread the word but he wasn't doing very well getting converts to Christianity. In misery, he sat on the bank of the river that runs through Zaragoza and Jesus's mum, who was still living in Jerusalem, came to him in some sort of spiritual form, gave him a pillar of jasper and instructed him to build a church in her honour. About a year later, he built a chapel for her, the first ever church dedicated to Mary, girl power back in the day of the patriarchy! Many churches have been built over and around it since then, the last in 1681 in a Mudejar, Islamic inspired style.
It is huge, and I wander past a Goya, (as you do) and my pamphlet tells me about the two bombs that were dropped onto the Cathedral during the Spanish Civil war that miraculously didn't explode and which are still in the church. Then I go up to the Basilica tower and am buffeted by strong winds but the view is amazing. Back on ground level, I find so many shops full of statues of Mary holding baby Jesus, her head surrounded by rays of celestial beams on a pillar.
As usual, I wonder if I've made a mistake by coming here. I wander through the huge piazza outside my hotel, the biggest in Spain and I'm not falling under it's spell but then I find a Vermuteria, the famous Vermouth bars of Spain. The older ladies of Zaragoza are out in style, perfectly coiffed and dressed with a Vermouth in hand. I'm seated next to two girls from Japan and I ask them why they came here and they said to see the church at night from the bridge. So that's where I will be, but I will have to find somewhere to eat as the Vermouth has gone straight to my head.
I find a paella bar and sober up and head off towards the bridge at sunset. The wind sweeps around the crowds of tourists waiting for the last dramatic rays of the sun as it sets and suddenly the twilight falls, brushed over in vermilion, flamingo pink and bright 24 carat gold tones, the church highlighted alongside the river. Spectacular.
The next morning, I venture into the back streets of the old centre and there, I fall in love with this city. Beautiful old bars and cafes everywhere! Churros for breakfast as that's what they do here and then I find the Gran Cafe Zaragozana. It is retro heaven for me.
I coffee there and then not far away I find another shabby chic cafe, La Republicana for more coffee where the beverage is accompanied by free buttery cake. It's like a museum, I stay awhile taking in the warmth and beauty of it.
Then I'm off to find a chocolate shop, La Flor de Almibar, dating back to 1856, still with the original woodwork and old signage. I order a rose truffle and a violet one. The women puts them on a gold cardboard plate, sprinkles red rose petals around them, wraps and ties it with a bow. For two chocolates! Oh, how Europeans love to present their produce and I like to receive it! I also love how they have merged the modern buildings to reflect the old.
Then I decide to walk to the Aljaferia palace which I've googled and it said it's 8 mins away. After thirty minutes of walking, I look at Google and see that I've selected how to get there by bike! Aljaferia is a fortified Islamic palace built in the 11th century. It's highly ornate and stunning but of course, its now lunch time so back into the centre I go for tapas - mushrooms stuffed with herbs and goats cheese covered in nuts with a cranberry topping.
The heat is still heavy here, I siesta and then go to La Pilara, a tapas bar I'd seen earlier, it's use of wine barrels for the bar is wonderful and also the walls are lined with retro wine and liquor labels. I dine on tapas and then go through the Gastronomic Mercato. It's Wednesday night and it seems it's the night for the grey haired brigade to eat out.
I wonder through the different tapas bars but end up back at the Gran Cafe Zaragozana where even the bathroom is gorgeous. I order an icy cocktail and settle in for the night to people watch. The tables are wooden and worn and I can imagine revolutionaries during the Spanish War, plotting and planning here. Even the bathroom is beautiful with wisdom on the walls. The daughter sends a photo from Seville, where she's gone with her friend. She's drinking wine at my favourite bar there. We're both making memories.
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