Of concubines and Berbers.
My guide comes to retrieve me and my one small bag, I tell him he doesn't have to but he's insistent. I follow him dutifully down the tiny streets thinking this is how it feels to be rich. We're off to Volubilis today, a Berber city and Roman archeological site from the 1st century AD. The Romans brought figs, grapes and olives to Morocco 2500 years ago. As Omar fills me in with some history he plays a selection of jazz that he loves which seems strangely out of place in this barren yet exotic landscape that we're passing through.
The complex is huge, he tells me it takes an hour to walk around it but as I'm usually faster than most, I think I'll be out in no time, especially in the searing heat but his estimation is right. I follow the pathway and am amazed at the beautiful mosaics that have been baking in the harsh sunshine for 2500 years. They are stunning, I fall for the voluptuous Venus and although I'd like to rush through this place because of the heat, I become obsessed with seeing them all.
A security guard wants to take photos of me, I shake my head but he is insistent, he's either a budding photographer, he wants a tip or his eyesight is bad when he compliments me and asks if I'm alone. I hurry off but he doesn't follow.
Moulay Idriss is our next destination, the holy city, a place of pilgrimage. The city overlooks Volubilis. I'm shown the biggest and most beautiful gate of the city and Omar suggests I see the market but I'm overheated, tired and hungry so he takes me to the tiny town of Moulay Driss Zerhoun for lunch and we sit in the square with the locals and have chicken kebabs cooked on a BBQ and mint tea. Across the road, tajines are cooking on an outdoor stove, donkeys rest in the shade as I do. We check out the markets briefly and then we're off to Meknes.
Omar tells me that Sultan Moulay Ismail's reign of terror from 1672 - 1727 included the deaths of up to 30,000 Berbers and christians and being half Berber, half Muslim, this city is not a favourite of his. The sultan had 500 wives that no one but him was allowed to look at and if anyone did they were killed, he also fathered 888 children. The palace is neglected and closed as the present King won't go near it as it is said it is haunted by Berbers. Again, I'm not keen on walking through it so we stop at a stall and Omar buys some of the pale pink pomegranates which he gifts to me and then we're on our way back to Fez for a night.
We stop at a bakery that he's recommended and I buy a box of beautiful almond biscuits and then I'm dropped back to the doors of the kasbah to be collected by someone from my ovenight Riad. Hamsa arrives to deliver me. He's skinny, friendly and talks briefly to everyone as we flit through the tiny alleyways. He speaks great English and comes from Marrakesh. He's an asset to his Riad. I ask to see my room but he says these things can't be hurried. I must sit, mint tea and a biscuit is brought. I ask about my phone card as I can't ring anyone and no one up to now has helped me but Hamsa says he will get me a sim card. 'Do not worry' is his mantra. I finally get to go to my room which was just behind me! It's beautiful, I walk through the red, hand painted doors feeling like a princess. I have a sea blue bathroom that looks like a cave. I rest until they call me for dinner.
I'm the only one there, there are roses and candles on my table. The dishes of various vegetables arrive and then an amazing chicken and lime tajine. I have been alcohol free for a few days now, that's a plus and tomorrow I'm glamping in the desert. Another dream coming true.
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