Passion, paella, flamenco and bars.
I've returned for a couple of days in Madrid, en route to meet up with the daughter in Portugal to celebrate her birthday. I've booked an upmarket hostel which is really cool. I'm the oldest one there of course! But the location is in the centre and I discover a Madrid I hadn't found before and I'm in love again! I'm such a flighty lover of cities! Yesterday it was Zaragoza, today Madrid centro!
I wander, admiring the beauty of the buildings, the incredible ceramic artwork on the walls, the art nouveau, art deco vibes everywhere. I come across Villa Rosa, a Flamenco restaurant and book for this evening. The guy at the desk tells me his ex-wife's name is Vanessa and that he was so broken hearted that he's been alone for two years. He's a young sexy Spaniard and I tell him to get back out there and try again, life's too short. I feel all maternal now that I seem to be the oldest inhabitant when I stay at the new age hostels, so I feel I can throw my advice around ( not great at giving myself any good advice but can hand it out!).
I discover La Fragua de Vulcano, The Vulcan's forge, named after a painting by the famous Spanish painter, Velazquez after he journeyed to Italy in the 1600's. It's only 30 years old but I feel like I'm sitting in a restaurant where Velazquez would have downed a Sangria or two. I had an amazing paella and a wine for Velazquez.
That night I entered Villa Rosa to another world, dinner was included with the ticket and then the lights dimmed and a small stage was highlighted with a guitarist and two singers seated and then the dancers arrived. The passion, the heat, the pain, the sweat, the sexuality of the Flamenco dancers! I'm transported again to another time, another place. I love the fact that history is always being relived in Europe. Australia is such a young place and for me, it feels hard to identify and find my place there but here I am a Flamenco dancer, I am hot and sweaty and twirling in my skirt, my huge earrings flashing in the lights, my shoes tapping out age old primitive rhythms. I walk away into the night, borne by the wild guitar music into another realm and envy the fact that this is their history and it's moving in their blood.
Next day I wandered past beautiful facades, more art on the outside, beautiful wrought iron balconies, incredible street art and then found the huge street market that went on forever. Mind blowing antiques, dresses, jewellery and cafes.
Exhausted, my mind exploding with beauty and ideas, I returned to the centre and discovered a street of old bars! Highly ornate and decorated. It's hard to choose one but Viva Madrid calls to me and I settle in with a mineral water and a Vermouth that comes with green olives and chips. I have a view via mirrors of the place and later I discover the upstairs section which is wonderfully cosy. As a woman on my own, I feel safe here, cared for by the waiters and able to be an observer of people who frequent here. If I lived in Madrid it would be my haunt. I walk the rest of the afternoon until late as I have the late night train to Lisbon.
Ps.The train is grotty and full of young tourists and I'm right next to a smelly toilet but I take a sleeping pill and awake in Lisbon, to take the train back to Sintra where the air is sweet as autumn begins in the mountains.
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