I fell in love!
A female taxi driver picks me up, it's a rarity in Italy but she says there's ten in Trieste, she's Romanian, starting a new life here. I have an excellent coffee at the bar at the bus station. The woman came from China five years ago and loves it in Italy. She greets everyone with a smile and a cackling laugh and I am so amazed at how people start their lives in a new country. The bus is late and I chat with a group of South African women who are here for a gender equality conference.
The journey to Ljubljana boasts stunning autumn scenery. The man who picks me up is gruff but when I ask about Slovenia he warms up, telling me it's cleaner than Italy where he says the gypsies have taken over...? In Slovenia, he says, they sell drugs but no one is murdered. A good combination I'm supposing. He drops me at my hotel and then tells me that he owns it. He is multi tasking.
My hotel is right on the river, there's some blue sky poking through and when I look out my window I can see the castle and the autumnal colours of golds, russets, the buildings of lichen, moss, dusty pink. I can't wait to explore.
I head towards the old centre By the river, Sloveska Hisa restaurant beckons me. I sit on a stool by the river, my companions are fat sparrows which I don't see in Australia anymore but Slovenian ones are alive and very content. I order a vegetarian platter of cheese, pumpkin seeds, dried fruit and the wine is 1.80 euro here!
Over a beautiful old bridge, there's a wine festival and food festival. I try chocolate flavoured red wine with a red wine chocolate truffle. Walking through the beautiful squares, I come across a man and his emus, as you do in Slovenia on a rainy afternoon.
The shops are beautiful, arty and creative. Chestnuts are roasting on the corners, the river winds through the town, old bridges spanning it every now and then. No cars, just pedestrians. I follow the scent of roasted flavoured almonds, caramel and spiced perfumes emanate from carts along the street. It's Saturday and people are everywhere enjoying their beautiful town.
The chilly air makes me search for a cafe to warm up in. I find the cutest old fashioned one and have thick hot chocolate. There's a little table for the kids with drawing equipment, a little boy of 2 and his sister are drawing contentedly.
I head home for a rest but that doesn't last long. A full moon skirting the the church spire outside my window draws me back out. The town is fairy like, lights strung across the streets. I eat at Marley and Me, friendly waiters, more cheap wine, a chicken dish with pancetta cream, potatoes with a crisped parmesan chip garnish and salad. Later I walk to Lolita's for dessert. This place is gorgeous. I have a pistachio marzipan covered strawberry sponge. It's amazing how you become a dessert and hot chocolate person when the temperature drops below 10 degrees. This place has exceeded all expectations.
I go to bed exhausted and wake ready to explore again as I look out my window and there's a trash and treasure market below along the river bank. I wander but can't buy, can't carry much back. So I go in search of a coffee shop and find Le Petit Cafe with French music and French newspapers wallpapering the walls. I stop for a coffee and then I'm off the Castle.
It's a steep walk but I pass through forests that look like the jigsaws of old. The autumn colours of the tree backlit by the blue and grey skies are so beautiful. The castle dates back to the 11th century, with extensive overhauls. I go back to Lolitas for a brunch of strudel filled with cottage cheese, walnut paste and poppy seeds and a piece of a famed apple cake with a strudel topping called Prek murska Gibanica, the name and ingredients of which are protected by law. Then I walk through another part of the town until it's lunchtime, I can see the Slovenians heading into the old inns that are peppered through this part of town. I have vegetables with a baked cheese, slathered with cranberry jam.
And then I find the most beautiful porcelain shop. The outside and inside is amazing. The woman who makes these beautiful creations has made porcelain for the Queen. I hesitate to buy because of the price but I chat with the creator's husband who says I look like an artist. He tells me they're away for a couple of days but to come back for a coffee. I feel I will then buy something. Coming out of the shops, I am met by the sun set in a deep azure blue sky, the city made golden in the afternoon light.
I booked a driver to take me to Piran rather than spend the day trying to get there by public transport. It ends up being Gorazd, the taxi driver/owner of the hotel! We drive by groves of persimmons, grapes and olives near the coast. Piran is beautiful, coloured buildings lining the square, the sea lapping it's shoreline. I lunch at an Italian restaurant on a fantastic seafood pasta dish. It's pouring but that makes the town reflect in the still puddles.
On the way back we went to the famous Predjama castle. A castle dating back to the 1200's built within a cave mouth for protection. A robber baron lived there in the 15th century, attacking the surrounding estates and towns. Supposedly he was killed sitting on the loo by a stray cannon shot. My driver said it wasn't worth paying the money to visit but I wish I had.
Next day, I go back to the porcelain shop, Catbriyur and buy a jug, it's exquisite. We have a coffee together and then I'm off with the cranky taxi driver to see another couple of towns but the rain is getting worse. I visit Malador and Ptuj which is pronounced Tui. Most places are closed because it's not tourist season but I find a cute restaurant for lunch. On the way home he buys me a special donut which is stuffed with apricot jam. He then reveals he has bought places in Piran and Lake Bled and has another hotel in Ljubljana. Here I am thinking I'm helping him out because he's trying to pay off the one I'm in!
It's my last night here, I walk back through the beautiful town, the air is crisped and there's a chance of snow it says on my phone. Maybe it will, maybe it won't but this town is so beautiful, the people so lovely. I pass by the markets, full of interesting winter vegetables and beautiful wreaths made of dried flowers.
Later, I go to a champagne bar just because and then I have dinner somewhere else, a rich chicken tomato stew behind the river and after I buy some of those spiced caramelised nuts for the trip tomorrow to Lake Bled. Ljubljana, I love you.
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