A beautiful interlude.
It's raining as I leave for Lake Bled but the autumn colours are only enhanced by the rain, everything varnished to brilliance. When I arrive at Guesthouse Mlino, they say my room has a strange smell and that would it be ok to go to another hotel down the road that was cheaper. Well yes, of course. Breakfast would be free at the first hotel because of the inconvenience!
They walk me over and deposit me into friendly hands. The owner asked if I'd like to come with her to a medieval town she had to go to but I'm wanting to stay and wander here. I open my doors to a terrace that overlooks the lake with the famous island in view and beyond to the castle on the hill. The sun is trying to make it's way through the clouds and when it does, suddenly beyond all this beauty is the snow capped mountains.
I lunch at a recommended restaurant a few doors down - Porcini soup with profiteroles, thin slivers of delicious porcini, fried crisped prosciutto and parmesan. It's wonderful!
Then I wander around the lake to the church. It's raining slightly but I am in awe of the colours of the trees. I have a hot chocolate at a cute cafe by the lake to escape the drizzle and then I walk and walk. It's just me and a group of Chinese, we don't care about the rain because this place is so beautiful.
The next day I take the local bus to Lake Bohinj, the largest permanent lake in Slovenia. We pass by beautiful wooden farmhouses and thickly wooded hills and valleys. There's a small church there and nothing much else to do in the cold weather, in summer it's the place to swim, as is Lake Bled. I'll have to return.
Returning, I book for a ride to the island on a pletna, a traditional boat that takes us over to the island. The water is pristine, smooth as silk and the sun has made it through the clouds again. We wander around the tiny island and look at the small museum and then head back.
Lunch is at my original hotel, buckwheat ravioli with a mushroom and sour cream sauce, which is heavy but delicious. Another long walk through the village and it's beautiful little shops to work off lunch!
On my way back, I stop off at the expensive Hotel Park for the famous Cremeschnitte, it's basically a huge vanilla slice with a lot of cream, not my thing but when in Slovenia....
That night I feast on fish at the hotel I was to have stayed in. The lake is full of fish, so fish I must try before I leave. It's delicious.
The atmosphere is warm and inviting, a tiny basket of rye and wholemeal buns accompany every meal here, they're also a staple of breakfast with boiled eggs, cured meats and so many different types of berry jams. Slovenia is unique and even though I'm leaving tomorrow, I know I'll be returning.
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