Hamburg.

The city of Xmas markets.

Still battling my cold, I'm off by train to Hamburg. A conductor collects me from 2nd class as evidently my ticket is 1st but they're both so elegant, you wouldn't know. Only difference is the free water, tea and coffee. Hamburg train station is a Xmas wonderland and in walking distance to Hotel Alt Nurnberg where I'm welcomed by a lovely old lady who calls someone older than me to take my bags up the three flights of stairs. She refuses to let me help, she can probably hear me huffing and puffing as she sprints up, bags in hand.

I take off to find the famous Xmas market but on my way to the main one, I go past two others! This city is Xmas market heaven!. The biggest one is full of wooden stalls, all beautifully decorated. There are chocolate, cake, cheese, you name it, they have it stalls. The food looks amazing, carbs, carbs and more carbs. I end up having potato pancakes with camembert and cranberry sauce which is so good. I eat in an area made of Xmas trees with a beautiful old enamel stove and a sled, oh and a stuffed elk. And then I discover the Gluwein and eggnog bars! You can buy the beautifully decorated mugs and so begins my collection.

Slightly inebriated after a gluwein and later an eggnog, I am transfixed by a fairyland cottage full of Xmas decorations that are exquisite. After that I visit the town hall or the Rathaus with it's huge Xmas tree and stunning sculptures and then I find another market on the Alster lake. This place is amazing!

Dinner is at Schiffer Borse restaurant, a former meeting place for maritime traders where shipping deals have been celebrated since the 1300's. It's stunning inside, painted woodwork everywhere. I have fish and chips, salad and Riesling. Arriving home, the owner gives me mineral water, fruit and a special little Xmas cake in cellophane tied up with a bow.

Breakfast looks beautiful but is expensive so I have the fruit and cake I was offered last night and then go to Roncalli Grand Cafe. It takes two coffees, one bad, one good to get me moving but I'm determined to see more of this beautiful city. The sun is out today so I go the bridge where Instagrammers go for an obligatory selfie and then down to the oldest street in Hamburg which again is full of Xmas paraphernalia and nothing seems to get stolen! There's an outdoor Xmas tree full of beautiful ornaments - outside! Unbelievable.

Then I'm back to the market for champignons, onions, some rich mustardy sour cream sauce and rye bread with a punch made of rum and amaretto and another Xmas mug for 3 euros. I then wander past more stalls where they are roasting big slabs of salmon, wood smoked over open fires. On the way home, I find another market and have a Quarkballe which is served hot. These are made of quark cheese, fried and dipped in sugar served with different sauces. I have mine with a dark, rich chocolate sauce. Because it's so cold, you feel like it's almost your duty to consume alcohol and carbs all times of the day.

That night I have dinner with one of my fellow students from the Italian school. She serves a beautiful three course meal and we talk of life here and in Italy. She has girls living with her as well to supplement her income and she's a graphic artist so we have a bit in common.

And so ends my sojourn in Hamburg. What an elegant, interesting city. The last photo sums up Hamburg natives for me as they embrace Xmas.