We took the train to Florence. Oh, how wonderful it was to sit back and not drive or worry about parking! We arrived to 34 degree sweltering heat. Florence is in a fish bowl of hills so no breeze was to be had. We found our hotel or not really a hotel - I don’t know what this new hotel type accommodation is called but you let yourself in and there is no one at reception. I didn’t realise it when I booked it but I quite like to have a helpful person at reception but that was not to be.
The room is beautiful and right next to a great restaurant which I realise I have been to before. I have an eggplant parmigiano in a froth of parmesan cream. It’s wonderful but sightseeing may have to wait until the cool of the evening when we meet up with a friend of the daughter’s for a Truffle negroni! A sip and then slowly the truffle scent hits you.
Then off to Osteria Nuvoli for dinner. It is a small hole in the wall bar upstairs and then we’re shown downstairs to a few dining tables. This place has been open for 211 years! Supposedly there’s a grave within the wall and the place is full of ambience. I have a stuffed chicken roast with potatoes and always, if we can get it, a plate of chicory and some rustic red wine. Perfect.
And then we pass by the Duomo, backlit and surreal in the dusk, coral pink and malachite green and mourn the loss of so many artists that used to sell their work around the church, so few now. Our room is so hot, the air con only cools one part of the room, we sweat our way through the night.
Next day we head to the markets and the baby pears are appearing, the artichoke flowers are blossoming, big bunches of pumpkin flowers are nestled in their leaves, the famous purple Tropea onions with their fluff roots are nestled amongst each other, beautiful plump pale coral and lime green tomatoes glisten, focaccias dripping in olive green oil are tempting.
Lunch is prosciutto, a soft cheese and fried bread balls and a selection of different aged pecorinos with jam.
And then we brave the Uffizi gallery but not without a stuff up with tickets. I booked two galleries and they mixed up the times so as we stood at the Accademia, ready to enter, we are told we should be at the Uffizi and there is nothing we can do about their mistake. We make a beeline for the Uffizi in the dazzling heat of the midday sun and are exhausted by the time we arrive but it is worth it, always. But we did go to see the ten Titians, only to find there were only five. By the time we get out, it’s time for a drink!
We head back towards home and go to Le Menagere which was excellent last time I was there but this time it’s expensive and the service questionable. Then we go to another place that was fantastic in 2019 only to order a pasta dish with a special pork and chilli sausage called nduja that had no nduja in it. I was tired and slightly cranky and I sent it back. I ordered a lasagna with guinea fowl and spatchcock in a cream sauce that was excellent. Glad I complained.
The next day we go back to the Accademia to see Michelangelo’s David. How things have changed since I was there 33 years ago when I just wondered in, paid and enjoyed the gallery with hardly anyone around me. Now you book a session time and it’s jam packed.
But I had forgotten how beautiful the medieval art is in here and Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures are impressively modern.
And then we stumble on another hole in the wall place, a quaint bar called Antiche Dogane for a much needed Spritz and a discussion on Martinis. When the Martini arrives, it comes in a chilled silver cup with essence of olive juice and a plate of eggplant balls. Neither of which is charged as the owner said he doesn’t charge for Martinis when he find a customer who loves them. It also comes with a glass of vermouth, a sort of chaser. We will return.
We venture our later to go to the Palazzo Medici Riccardi which has a beautiful exhibition of paintings by Oscar Ghiglia from the early 19th century. The palace itself was grand and overwhelming but the chapel is exquisite with beautiful medieval frescoes.
We decide to head back to our favourite bar, sitting outside and drinking Negronis served in a wine glass with all Italian ingredients which again arrives with tiny aperitivi; the tiny fried mozzarella sandwiches and puff pastry rounds with tomato and bocconcini. We are again welcomed by the friendly owner and another free Martini is gifted. There are no prices, no menu here.
We go back to a place we know is good and have duck ragout with a local thick pasta and an Amaretti dusted pannacotta for dessert.
Breakfast from the hotel is served at a quaint vintage cafe, it’s like an antique shop, everything is for sale. It’s run by an interesting guy who has drag shows in the theatre next door and has a holiday home in Florida.
After our macchiatos and tiny croissants, we head to the main market of Florence. Again, it has changed from a market full of produce to a market with a few stalls and mainly upmarket restaurants, cafes and bars. I buy the most amazing turmeric focaccia with prosciutto, sweet figs and Brie which is amazing. Then we wait for the tripe sandwiches that Florence is famous for, not for me but for my friend. Finally it is ready, they dip the bun in the juices and fill it with the spiced tripe. Evidently it was amazing but I’m happy with my focaccia
Then we’re off to the Ponte Vecchio which of course, is clogged with tourists, just like us but we feel we are above all that and we head down the side and along the river where we find an amazing artist/ceramicist/engineer. His work is beautiful and so we buy some paintings.
Our final night and we dress up and head to our favourite bar for another type of Negroni and then to a great restaurant with a Malaysian waiter who made us feel like royalty. We had a panzanella salad and roasted chicken with amazing yellow and flavourful potatoes, simple but good which the Italians excel at. Dessert was a caffe corretto, something I’d heard of but never tried. It’s an espresso with Sambuca and it’s incredible!
We have spent most of our meal being entertained by a beautiful girl who slid into her seat and suddenly two waiters appear in tandem but sadly only one can take her order. She gets her computer out and a glass of wine appears and the waiters take it in turn to check on her. She is nonchalant and at ease with the attention. Towards the end, we begin to talk and find out she was a model but she decided that she liked to eat so now she’s a rep for cosmetics. The waiters are in constant attendance as we leave. Ah, Italia!Florence
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