Auronzo

Coming home.

I have never been here in the autumn. The colours are amazing. The rusting leaves, saffron golds, the turquoise depths of the lake in contrast. I walk in awe, every now and then seeing the russet colours of funghi popping up in shady spots. The air is crisped and clear, the water still and unruffled.

The wood piles are beginning, it's an art, a pastime. It's also Halloween and when I walk down to Bar Venezia, the kids are dressed up with their baskets to collect their lollies. I order an Italian thick hot chocolate with the works to celebrate the beauty of this season.

The next day is All Saints Day and this small village is crowded. I go to Bar Venezia after wandering around the lake and I have to head upstairs to find a table. I try the Bombardino, a drink for the colder season, half Advocaat and half brandy, topped with whipped cream. Perfect.

I spend a few days enjoying the autumn air, hanging out with my late husband's sister, dreaming of painting the apartment and putting my own touches to it. Then I'm off to Trieste on my way to Slovenia, new horizons.

I catch the train from Venice. The train station is beautiful. I take a selfie and then walk through the town to my hotel. In Italy they seem to be doing up old apartments into mini hotels without breakfast. I love the staircases.

The town is on the Slovenian/Croatian border, an ancient port at the end of the Silk Road. It's an elegant mixture of styles and the Trieste occupants consider themselves separate to Italy. After leaving my bags, I head into the main square for my tour of beautiful old cafes. Caffe Degli Specchi began it's life in 1832. I order a macchiato and a dark choc shot to go with it. There's an Austrian feel about the place with an Italian twist. Whipped cream is the star of most drinks here I notice. The well dressed matrons are in serious winter gear, a lot of fur collars, big coats, boots, hats, gloves and scarves. I am seriously underdressed in my spring trench.

I wander the streets, finding other cute cafes, one in which I stop for a late afternoon Prosecco (everyone else is doing it, so it must be the time), with a tiny biscuit topped with hazelnut mousse.

Later that afternoon, in starvation mode from all the walking, I try to find something open but this is not a tourist town and nothing opens till 7, which is really only aperitivo hour so there's only one thing I can do...go to another beautiful bar, Antico Caffe Torinese. My Hugo spritz which is elderflower liqueur and prosecco, is served with 3 aperitivi which will keep me going to dinner time.

Then I walk to the Grand Canal of Trieste where the Italians are doing their last minute promenade before dinner and I find a lovely seafood restaurant to end my first day here.

Next day I'm on the old cafe hunt again. The first is Caffe Marco with it's Venetian mask theme and warm interior, perfect for a rainy, grey day. It was founded in 1914 and became a haunt for writers. There's a few nerdy looking people typing on their computers as I watch the handsome barista make coffee from an ancient machine. I have the local pastry called a Presniz, a strudel type pastry filled with pine nuts, cinnamon, cloves and dark chocolate which is delicious. It also has a bookshop within. Perfect.

Then off to Caffe Tommaseo, the oldest cafe, founded in 1830. Another place for intellectuals and revolutionaries. Another day, another two macchiatos, this one in Trieste style served with whipped cream and a jam biscuit. Then of course, I have to walk off the caffeine.

I come across a small local museum with an exhibition on Tyrolean photos and art and there's free food and drinks and it's good. Local cheese, olives, crumbed eggplant, fried pumpkin flowers. Appetite seen to, I wander over to see the ancient Roman theatre and past the rain mirrored square, beautiful sculptures and buildings.

That night, I eat close to home. Aperitivo first because the restaurants are closed and I'm starving and then pizza with a bitter green - friarielli and pork sausage flavoured with fennel with a harbour view. Next to me is a couple on a first date I should imagine. He eats everything they order, she picks at her food and drinks a lot. They are both so glamorous and well dressed, I feel like I'm in a film. And with that, Trieste is done. I'm off to Slovenia tomorrow.